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This intercooler piping is designed to fit OEM 2JZ-GTE intake manifolds and throttle bodies. This includes both non-VVT-i and VVT-i versions. If you are running and aftermarket intake manifold, we make intercooler piping specifically for your manifold. See our 3.5" or 4.0" cold-side intercooler piping kits for those applications. Please note: PHR 3.0" Cold Side Intercooler Pipes routing can interfere with electric dual fan setups. If you are running dual electric fans, we can build custom IC pipes for you, but you will need to contact us. It is made to fit PHR 4.5, 5 and 6 inch intercoolers. We cannot guarantee fitment if you are using a different intercooler. Please also note, just like any front mount intercooler setup, the AC line brackets will have to be detached and moved underneath the piping. Fitment
Details are important
Made of top-quality lightweight aluminum CNC mandrel bends. Mandrel bends allow for optimal flow. The end of each section is bead rolled to keep couplers from slipping off.
The design of these pipes route underneath the frame rail, and around to the intercooler. This will require removal or trimming of the inner fender well plastics panels as well as modification or cutting of the AC Line brackets which must be lowered to accommodate the routing of these pipes. These plastic panels and brackets block debris from the tires from entering the engine bay, and also hold up the lower plastic panels.
We've found that removal doesn't make much of a difference for debris or dirt entering, but if you are in an exceptionally dusty or dirty area (like living on a dirt road), we'd recommend trimming the panels to fit around the piping rather than removing them. If you do choose to remove them, you will need to add some zip ties or other holding method to the lower panels as well to keep them secure.
When considering worm gear clamps vs T-bolt clamps for the solution to clamping the couplers to the aluminum intercooler tubing, we've found that worm gear clamps are the best for this application. T-bolt clamps can create too much force, and end up collapsing the tubing, making for a looser connection over time.
They also are not optimal for the space provided behind the bead roll due to the extra wide band, and often clamp over the bead roll instead of behind it on the tubing. This can create poor clamping.
In our experience, worm gear clamps offer the superior clamping solution in this application, and we use only the highest quality stainless worm gear clamps available.
For high boost applications when you might even more holding capability, boost braces can be added across the couplet to create a mechanical link, that virtually ensures the pipes cannot separate the coupler cannot pop off.
If you want to add boost braces, you will need to have the bolt bosses welded to the tubing, turbo, and/or intercooler. PHR can provide this service, but you will need to contact us to do so.
You will need one boost kit for each connection you want to make. 3 Kits would cover each connection on this kit.
This intercooler piping is designed to fit OEM 2JZ-GTE intake manifolds and throttle bodies. This includes both non-VVT-i and VVT-i versions. If you are running and aftermarket intake manifold, we make intercooler piping specifically for your manifold. See our 3.5" or 4.0" cold-side intercooler piping kits for those applications. Please note: PHR 3.0" Cold Side Intercooler Pipes routing can interfere with electric dual fan setups. If you are running dual electric fans, we can build custom IC pipes for you, but you will need to contact us. It is made to fit PHR 4.5, 5 and 6 inch intercoolers. We cannot guarantee fitment if you are using a different intercooler. Please also note, just like any front mount intercooler setup, the AC line brackets will have to be detached and moved underneath the piping. Fitment
Details are important
Made of top-quality lightweight aluminum CNC mandrel bends. Mandrel bends allow for optimal flow. The end of each section is bead rolled to keep couplers from slipping off.
The design of these pipes route underneath the frame rail, and around to the intercooler. This will require removal or trimming of the inner fender well plastics panels as well as modification or cutting of the AC Line brackets which must be lowered to accommodate the routing of these pipes. These plastic panels and brackets block debris from the tires from entering the engine bay, and also hold up the lower plastic panels.
We've found that removal doesn't make much of a difference for debris or dirt entering, but if you are in an exceptionally dusty or dirty area (like living on a dirt road), we'd recommend trimming the panels to fit around the piping rather than removing them. If you do choose to remove them, you will need to add some zip ties or other holding method to the lower panels as well to keep them secure.
When considering worm gear clamps vs T-bolt clamps for the solution to clamping the couplers to the aluminum intercooler tubing, we've found that worm gear clamps are the best for this application. T-bolt clamps can create too much force, and end up collapsing the tubing, making for a looser connection over time.
They also are not optimal for the space provided behind the bead roll due to the extra wide band, and often clamp over the bead roll instead of behind it on the tubing. This can create poor clamping.
In our experience, worm gear clamps offer the superior clamping solution in this application, and we use only the highest quality stainless worm gear clamps available.
For high boost applications when you might even more holding capability, boost braces can be added across the couplet to create a mechanical link, that virtually ensures the pipes cannot separate the coupler cannot pop off.
If you want to add boost braces, you will need to have the bolt bosses welded to the tubing, turbo, and/or intercooler. PHR can provide this service, but you will need to contact us to do so.
You will need one boost kit for each connection you want to make. 3 Kits would cover each connection on this kit.
